GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 3 BREGUET.COM REINE DE NAPLES 8918
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GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 6 Si vous lisez ces quelques lignes, notre magazine est bien entre vos mains. C’est peut-être aussi parce que vous éprouvez une certaine affinité pour l’univers des garde-temps tout comme celui des bijoux. Nous sommes alors faits pour nous entendre et sommes très heureux de vous faire partager notre monde, celui de notre passion. Nouvelle rencontre sur papier glacé ou sur la toile pour devenir un lien entre vous et nos équipes au sein de nos magasins. A travers ce magazine, nous allons vous faire voyager dans notre univers : des nouveautés horlogères aux tendances joaillières en passant par la parfumerie et les cosmétiques pour finir au coeur de l’art de la table. Sincèrement, Fréderic Erb
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 8 10 GOLDFINGER STORYTELLING 12 HORLOGERIE ROLEX, TUDOR 22 JOAILLERIE CHOISIR VOTRE DIAMANT 24 JOAILLERIE CHAUMET, DINH VAN, DJULA, FRED 32 NOUVEAUTÉS SPEEDOMETER, DEMETRA 36 HORLOGERIE TAG HEUER, ZENITH, HUBLOT 46 INNOVATION VICTORINOX 48 PEARL CARE MIKIMOTO 50 HAUTE JOAILLERIE ROBERTO COIN, DE BEERS 54 NOUVEAUTÉ BELL&ROSS BR-X5 56 ENVIRONNEMENT BLANCPAIN & BIOPIXEL 58 HORLOGERIE BREGUET, JAEGER-LECOULTRE, OMEGA 64 SAVOIR-FAIRE 68 PARFUMERIE & COSMÉTIQUE 84 ART DE LA TABLE 2022 I 2023 #01 SOMMAIRE Edition & Distribution DAC Promotions Directeurs de la publication Cécile Erb Alexandre Doquin Siret 419 152 822 00013 Impression Madrid (Espagne) 45 000 exemplaires Rédaction DAC Promotions Création Graphique Thomas Proust Benjamin Koury Deborah Doquin Photographies Istock/ Shutterstock / S.T. Dupont Omega / De Beers / Hublot / Zenith Pixabay / Freepik / Pexels +590 590 87 59 96 Goldfinger Jewelry jewelrygoldfinger.com Jewelry.Goldfinger
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 10 Il n’y a pas de réelle recette du succès. Certains parlent de la sélection des marques, de l’emplacement, de l’équipe. Chez Goldfinger, la question ne s’est jamais posée. C’est une affaire de famille avant tout, de passion commune. Pendant quarante ans, depuis l’ouverture de la première boutique à Marigot, à Saint-Martin, cette entreprise familiale a su rester fidèle à ses principes qui lui ont permis de gagner le respect et fidéliser sa clientèle exigeante. There is no real recipe for success. Some people talk about brand selection, location, team. At Goldfinger, the question has never arisen. It’s a family affair above all, a shared passion. For forty years, since the opening of the first store in Marigot, Saint-Martin, this family business has remained faithful to its principles that have earned it the respect and loyalty of its demanding customers. STORYTELL I NG
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 11 MUTUAL PASSION For some people, a watch is a watch: a tool for telling the time. In fact, watchmaking is an art that requires the most meticulous know-how and a continual need to update one’s knowledge, especially with precision mechanisms that are becoming more and more complex and sophisticated. At Goldfinger, developed in the Northern Islands, this profession is passed down from father to son. The latter, before turning his attention to resolutely modern timepieces, had a passion for restoring old clocks. Yes, this is a family of true professionals, as those who have the opportunity to visit the workshop can testify. In this magical space, one can find the most traditional tools, piece by piece, equipped with the latest technology in order to stay in tune with the Haute Horlogerie industry. They regularly participate in the latest training sessions to learn about the latest movements developed by each House. Therefore, they remain familiar with the mechanisms available in the boutique, competent to judge the quality of the materials used and convince you that the finishing is not only adapted to the primary use of the watches, but also to the climate supported. Finally, they can assure you that they will be able to guarantee an efficient maintenance of your future purchase. SEEKING EXCELLENCE They regularly participate in the latest training sessions to learn about the latest movements developed by each House. Therefore, they remain familiar with the mechanisms available in the store, competent to judge the quality of the materials used and will convince you that the finishing is not only adapted to the primary use of the watches, but also to the climate supported. Finally, they can assure you that they will be able to guarantee an efficient maintenance of your future purchase. ART OF LIVING Goldfinger Cosmetics opens the doors to its world, filled with gift ideas and must-have products, for which we are the ambassadors of a refined art of living. Search for the latest products and find your makeup bestsellers: lipstick, mascara, foundation, makeup palette, everything you need to look your best. Perfect your look with a touch of fragrance: eau de parfum or eau de toilette, buy your favorite women’s perfume and pamper your man with his unique men’s perfume. After a long day, we give ourselves a well-deserved moment of relaxation. Let’s go for body, face, bath and shower care! A perfect beauty routine with expert brands and their innovative treatments, adapted to all your needs. Looking for the perfect gift? Come and discover our exceptional products: refined scents for the home, tableware, leather goods, crystal. At Goldfinger Cosmetics, the power of the art of living is in your hands. And this is just the beginning. UNE PASSION COMMUNE Pour certains, une montre est une montre : un outil permettant de prendre connaissance de l’heure. En fait, l’horlogerie est un art qui requiert le plus méticuleux savoirfaire et un continuel besoin d’actualiser ses connaissances, notamment avec lesmécanismes de précision qui deviennent de plus en plus complexes et sophistiqués. Chez Goldfinger, développés dans les îles du Nord, cette profession se transmet de père en fils. Ce dernier, avant de tourner son attention vers des garde-temps résolument modernes, nourrissait une passion de restaurer d’anciennes horloges. Oui, il s’agit bien d’une famille de véritables professionnels, comme ceux qui ont l’opportunité de visiter l’atelier peuvent en témoigner. Dans ce magique espace, on peut y trouver les outils les plus traditionnels, pièce par pièce, équipés de la dernière technologie afin de rester en accord avec l’industrie de la Haute Horlogerie. Ils participent de façon régulière aux dernières formations afin de prendre connaissance des derniers mouvements développés par chaque Maison. De ce fait, ils demeurent familiers avec les mécanismes disponibles en boutique, compétents de juger de la qualité des matériaux utilisés et vous convaincrons que la finition n’est pas uniquement adaptée à l’utilisation première que nous faisons des montres, mais aussi au climat supporté. Finalement, ils peuvent vous assurer qu’ils seront capables de garantir un entretien efficace de votre futur achat. RECHERCHE DE L’EXCELLENCE Ils participent de façon régulière aux dernières formations afin de prendre connaissance des derniers mouvements développés par chaque Maison. De ce fait, ils demeurent familiers avec les mécanismes disponibles en boutique, compétents de juger de la qualité des matériaux utilisés et vous convaincrons que la finition n’est pas uniquement adaptée à l’utilisation première que nous faisons des montres, mais aussi au climat supporté. Finalement, ils peuvent vous assurer qu’ils seront capables de garantir un entretien efficace de votre futur achat. ART DE VIVRE Goldfinger Cosmetics vous ouvre les portes de son univers, rempli d’idées cadeaux et d’incontournables produits, dont nous sommes les ambassadrices d’un art de vivre raffiné. Partez à la recherche des dernières nouveautés et retrouvez vos best-sellers maquillage : rouge à lèvres, mascara, fond de teint, palette maquillage, tout pour être au top. On peaufine votre look avec une touche de fragrance : eau de parfum ou eau de toilette, on shoppe notre parfum préféré femme et on chouchoute Monsieur avec son parfum homme si unique. Après une longue journée, on s’octroie un moment détente bien mérité. A nous les soins corps, visage, bain et douche ! Une routine beauté parfaite avec des marques expertes et leurs soins novateurs, adaptés à tous vos besoins. A la recherche du cadeau parfait ? Venez découvrir les produits exceptionnels : senteurs raffinées pour la maison, art de la table, maroquinerie, cristal. Chez Goldfinger Cosmetics, le pouvoir de l’art de vivre est entre vos mains. Et ce n’est que le début.
OYSTER PERPETUAL SUBMARINER 41 mm, Oystersteel, black lacquer dial, unidirectional rotatable bezel fitted with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black ceramic, Oyster bracelet, calibre 3230.
Oyster Perpetual Submariner THE REFERENCE AMONG DIVERS’ WATCHES The Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date, archetypes of the divers’ watch, epitomize the historic link between Rolex and underwater exploration. OYSTER PERPETUAL Submariner Dive into the blue Picture taken by David Doubilet, pioneering underwater photographer and Rolex Testimonee.
Oyster Perpetual Submariner Launched in 1953, the Submarinerwas the first divers’ wristwatchwaterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). Thiswas Rolex’s second great breakthrough in the technical masteryofwaterproofness, following the invention of theOyster, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, in 1926. In watchmaking, the Submariner represented a historic turning point; it set the standard for divers’ watches. The SubmarinerDate,with its date function in addition to the time,was introduced in 1969. The waterproofness of both models was later increased to 300 metres (1,000 feet). Thanks to their renowned robustness, they have moved beyond the marine depths, becoming watches of choice for a wide range of sports and other activities. A true divers’ watch by design As an underwater survival tool, the Submariner’s design has been entirely dictated by the practical needs of divers. Since 1953, the model has evolved technically and has been endowed with features to improve overall functionality. The first version was a pioneering achievement, and subsequent ones have continued to set the benchmark for divers’ watches. Featuring a 41mmOyster case, distinctive dial with large luminescent hourmarkers and hands, unidirectional rotatable bezel and Oyster bracelet, the Submariner and Submariner Date are symbols of reliability and among themost recognizablewatches ever designed. Contributing to the strong visual identity, a graduatedCerachrombezel insert is key to their functionality. Its 60-minute graduation allows a diver tomonitor diving time accurately. Manufactured by Rolex from a hard, corrosion-resistant ceramic, the Cerachrom insert is virtually scratchproof and its colour unaffected by ultraviolet rays, seawater or water that is chlorinated. The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip to set the dive time and can bemanipulatedwith ease, evenwhen wearing gloves. It rotates notch by notch, accompanied by distinctive clicks. The dial’s luminescent Chromalight display is an innovation that improves visibility in dark environments, an essential feature for divers. The hour and minute hands, clearly differentiated in size and shape, and the hour markers in simple geometric forms – triangle, circle and rectangle – enable instant and reliable reading to avoid confusion underwater. Reliability, robustness and functionality The Submariner and Submariner Date’s Oyster case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 300 metres (1,000 feet), provides the movement with optimal protection from water, dust, pressure and shocks. The Triplock winding crown – fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard – screws down securely against the case, providing increased water resistance. A paragon of reliability, the Oyster bracelet marries engineering and aesthetics, and is designed to be both robust and comfortable. It is equippedwith anOysterlock safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening, and a Rolex Glidelock extension system, allowing fine adjustment of the bracelet length without using any tools so that it can be worn comfortably over a diving suit.
Oyster Perpetual Submariner In watchmaking, the Submariner represented a historic turning point; it set the standard for divers’ watches. OYSTER PERPETUAL SUBMARINER, 1953 38 mm, steel, waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), 60-minute graduated black insert in anodized aluminium.
Oyster Perpetual Submariner OYSTER PERPETUAL SUBMARINER DATE 41 mm, 18 ct white gold, black lacquer dial, unidirectional rotatable bezel fitted with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in blue ceramic, Oyster bracelet, calibre 3235. Watches in the Submariner range are symbols of reliability and among the most recognizable timepieces ever designed.
Oyster Perpetual Submariner The Submariner and Submariner Date are equipped with calibre 3230 and calibre 3235 respectively, self-winding mechanical movements entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Their architecture, manufacturing and innovative featuresmake themsingularly precise and reliable. They are fittedwith the exclusive blue Parachrom hairspring and incorporate the patented Chronergy escapement. Both movements’ power reserve extends to approximately 70 hours. Superlative chronometer certification Like all Rolex timepieces, watches in the Submariner range are covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’sworkshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories, according to its own criteria. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee. A key to the deep The Submariner was created specifically for underwater exploration and diving. Over the years, it has proved equally at home out of the water and has become the emblematic all-round watch, worn by explorers, athletes, filmmakers, artists and others from all walks of life. When it first came out of the Rolexworkshops, thewatchwas an immediate success withmany pioneering deep-sea professionals, whowere asked to test it for the brand. One of those trailblazers was Dimitri Rebikoff, a French engineer and photographer specializing in underwater research, forwhom thiswatch quickly became indispensable. In his 1953 report, Rebikoff wrote that it had performed outstandingly well in trials: “We are able to confirm that thiswatch has not only given entire satisfaction in diving conditions which were extremely tough and particularly murderous for the material used, but that it has proved an indispensable accessory for all diving with independent equipment.” A true divers’ watch, the Submariner paved the way for Rolex deep-sea diving watches, namely, the Sea-Dweller and the Rolex Deepsea. High-tech ceramic The Cerachrom bezel insert is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. Additionally, it is inert and cannot corrode. TRIPLOCK WINDING CROWN Including two sealed zones inside the tube and a third inside the crown, the Triplock winding crown provides increased water resistance. ROLEX GLIDELOCK The Rolex Glidelock extension system is an inventive toothed mechanism, located under the clasp cover that enables fine adjustment of the bracelet length, without tools.
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 18 With its new Pelagos 39 model, TUDOR offers a versatile watch at the crossroads between the world of technical diving and urban sophistication. PELAGOS 39 TUDOR
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 19 Featuring grade 2 titanium, luminescent ceramic composite monobloc hour markers, a rapid adjustment system for the clasp and a diver’s extension, the Pelagos 39 model combines TUDOR’s professional dive watch heritage with the versatility of a 39-millimetre case and the striking radiance of sunray satin finishes on its bezel and dial. The result is a sports watch that boasts both cuttingedge watchmaking technology and a chic aesthetic, as at ease in the city as on the shore. The Pelagos 39 model joins the TUDOR family of technical divers’ watches, with a versatile, complementary design. While the Pelagos, Pelagos LHD and Pelagos FXD models perpetuate a purely technical aquatic heritage, offering functions specific to highly specialised and relatively niche professional dives, Pelagos 39 is a compact and versatile, traditional mechanical divers’ watch, with a touch of elegance created by the shine of the sunray satin finishes on its dial and the insert on the bezel. The applied hour markers on the dial are made of monobloc luminescent ceramic composite, a feature that enhances the technical aesthetics, whilst considerably increasing the luminous surface of the hour markers. The dial is made up of two main elements, a sunray satin finish flat disc whose subtle shine contrasts with the matt finish of the 45° conical bead-blasted flange. Last, but not least, the name Pelagos stands out in glossy cherry red at 6 o’clock, disrupting the model’s two-tone colour palette. THE TUDOR DIVERS’ WATCH The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 with the launch of reference 7922. Waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft), it was the firstborn in a long line of dive watches. Affordable, robust, reliable and precise, it perfectly represented the brand’s tool watch philosophy. The seven decades following its introduction have witnessed the constant improvement of TUDOR divers’ watches and them gaining acclaim from professionals in the field, including some of the world’s greatest military navies.
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 20 TUDOR
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 21 TUDOR THE D I V E R ’ S WATC H The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 with the launchof reference 7922. Waterproof to 100metres (330 ft), it was the firstborn in a long line of dive watches. Affordable, robust, reliable and precise, it perfectly represented the brand’s tool watch philosophy. The seven decades following its introduction have witnessed the constant improvement of TUDOR divers’ watches and them gaining acclaim from professionals in the field, including some of the world’s greatest military navies. THE TUDOR GUARANTEE Since its creation by HansWilsdorf in 1926, and in line with his vision of an ideal watchmaking product, TUDOR has never stopped producing the most robust, durable, reliable and precise watches in existence today. Bolstered by this experience and confident in the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or submitted for periodic checks and is transferable.
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 22 To simplify the subject of diamond grading, the 4Cs relate to cut, colour, clarity and carat weight - a universal language that was established with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and introduced to the public by De Beers. The combination of these factors determines a diamond`s relative rarity and value. However, as important as the 4 Cs are in diamond grading reports, they do not express the beauty of a diamond, the most important part of our diamond selection work. By hand and eye, we focus on the beauty of each and every diamond, because a natural diamond should never be purchased purely on its laboratory grading report. Two diamonds with the same 4Cs may differ greatly in beauty. One may be dull and lifeless, the product of poorly aligned facets and angles, while the other may radiate with Fire, Life and Brilliance. We know their interrelation very well, therefore we can help you find the perfect diamond for every budget. And most importantly, trust your eye, mind and ultimately your heart’s reaction. The diamond you chose should be the one which you do not want to take off your hand, regardless of the important 4Cs. ROUND BRILLIANT Only those whose facets are perfectly cut and aligned – ensuring maximum brilliance – can be called a De Beers True Brilliant. PRINCESS-CUT The princess-cut diamond features clean lines and sharply defined corners, combined with the kind of supreme sparkle you expect from a round brilliant cut, thanks to its incredible multi-faceting. Marrying timeless appeal with a contemporary edge, it sits well with designs that incorporate pave diamonds, just as it looks exceptional as a solitaire. PEAR-SHAPE The curves of the pear-shaped diamond are some of the most technically difficult to achieve but the result is a classically beautiful cut that combines the sparkle of a round brilliant with the tapering finesse of a marquise-cut. Offering a sense of individuality, it is a shape that is often incorporated into high jewellery designs. EMERALD-CUT For pure timeless elegance, the emerald cut has it all, its clean, rectangular shape with stepped facets creating a ‘hallof-mirrors’ effect that produces flashes of light. Linear, with the diamond appearing even larger thanks to a greater table surface area, the emerald-cut diamond appeals to lovers of both contemporary and vintage styles alike. ASSCHER-CUT A square emerald-cut, the Asscher has an understated classic beauty and strong brilliance, which appeals to those who love straight edges and perfect symmetry. OVAL-SHAPE In terms of faceting, the oval-shape is a modified form of the round brilliant, possessing a similar ability to reflect light and maximise sparkle. Its elongated shape not only creates an illusion of a greater carat weight but can also make the fingers appear more slender. CUSHION-CUT Whether square or rectangular in shape, the cushion-cut combines impressively cut facets for dazzling sparkle with softly rounded corners for a touch of subtlety. The result is a cut that is characterised by a sense of harmony. One of the most historical cuts, it originated over 200 years ago. MARQUISE-SHAPE This long, narrow cut is another modified version of the round brilliant. It dates back to the 1700s when legend has it Louis XV of France requested a diamond cut to resemble the perfectly shaped mouth of his mistress, Marquise de Pompadour. Its shape has the effect of appearing to maximise the carat weight and elongating the fingers. RADIANT CUT This non-traditional cut combines the purity of the emerald cut with the sparkle of a round brilliant. Originating in the 1970s, radiant-cut diamonds are ideal for the lovers of perfect symmetry combined with glamorous brilliance. HEART SHAPE Considered one of the most romantic cuts, the heart shape is based on the round brilliant, with a cleft at the top. Its popularity dates back to the 16th century, when Mary Queen of Scots famously gave Queen Elizabeth a heart-shaped diamond ring as a gift of friendship. J OA I L L E R I E HOW TO SELECT YOUR D IAMOND JOAILLERIE
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 23 Pour simplifier le système de classification des diamants, les 4C (taille, couleur, pureté, poids) ont été co-créés avec le GIA (Gemmological Institute of America) et présentés au public en tant que langage universel par De Beers. La combinaison de ces facteurs détermine la rareté et la valeur relative d’un diamant. Cependant, malgré l’importance des 4C en matière d’étalonnage, ils n’expriment pas la beauté du diamant, qui reste le critère de sélection le plus important. Nous évaluons la beauté de chaque diamant à la main et à l’œil, car un diamant naturel ne devrait jamais être acheté uniquement pour son classement en laboratoire. Deux diamants avec les mêmes 4C peuvent être très inégaux en termes de beauté. L’un peut être terne et sans éclat à cause d’un mauvais alignement de ses angles et facettes, tandis qu’un autre peut irradier de Feu, d’Éclat et de Brillance. Nous avons parfaitement conscience de leur corrélation. Ainsi, nous pouvons vous aider à trouver le diamant idéal pour chaque budget. Plus important encore, faites confiance à vos yeux, à votre jugement, et suivez votre cœur. Le diamant fait pour vous est celui que vous ne parviendrez pas à lâcher du regard, et ce malgré l’importance des 4C. LA FORME DES DIAMANTS Toutes les tailles de diamants s’appuient sur trois styles de facettage : brillant rond, à degrés et princesse. Les formes à bords arrondis, comme les tailles poire, ovale, coussin et marquise sont basées sur le brillant rond. Ses facettes sont disposées selon un motif rayonnant vers l’extérieur jusqu’à la partie la plus large du diamant (appelée ceinture), ce qui produit un puissant éclat réfléchissant. Les tailles aux contours droits, comme la coupe émeraude, se basent sur la taille à degrés. Ces diamants sont agrémentés de facettes à degrés, parallèles au contour de leur ceinture. Cela leur procure une brillance à la transparence glacée. La coupe princesse est une variation carrée de la coupe rond brillant. La forme d’un diamant est une question de choix personnel et chaque taille présente des caractéristiques qui lui sont propres. La forme que vous choisirez pour votre diamant doit refléter votre personnalité et votre vision de l’élégance. Nous pensons que le plus beau diamant du monde vous choisira. C’est souvent le diamant qui vous fascinera tellement que vous ne cesserez de l’admirer. ROND BRILLANT Grâce à une technique rigoureuse introduite par De Beers, seuls ceux dont les facettes sont parfaitement taillées et alignées pour en optimiser l’éclat peuvent être qualifiés de De Beers True Brilliant. PRINCESSE Un diamant taille princesse ajoute des lignes épurées et des angles nets à l’incomparable éclat d’une taille rond brillant, grâce à son incroyable jeu de facettes. Alliant charme intemporel et modernité, cette taille s’intègre élégamment à des créations composées de diamants pavés, tout comme elle crée un solitaire exceptionnel. POIRE Les courbes d’une taille poire sont parmi les plus difficiles à façonner techniquement, mais le résultat obtenu affiche une beauté classique qui allie l’éclat de la taille rond brillant et la pointe effilée de la taille marquise. Offrant un sentiment d’individualité, la taille poire est souvent intégrée à des créations de haute joaillerie. ÉMERAUDE Élégante et intemporelle, la taille émeraude a tout pour plaire. Sa forme rectangulaire épurée et ses facettes à degrés créent un effet de « galerie des glaces » qui génère des éclats de lumière. Linéaire, le diamant paraît plus gros grâce à une plus grande surface de table. La taille émeraude séduit à la fois les amateurs de styles contemporains et vintage. ASSCHER Taille émeraude de forme carrée, la taille Asscher arbore une beauté classique et subtile et une intense brillance qui séduira les amateurs de lignes droites et de symétrie parfaite. OVALE En termes de facettage, la forme ovale est une variante de la taille rond brillant et possède une capacité similaire à réfléchir la lumière et à maximiser l’éclat. Sa silhouette fine et élancée crée non seulement l’illusion d’un poids en carats plus élevé, mais également celle d’affiner les doigts. COUSSIN De forme carrée ou rectangulaire, la taille coussin allie à la perfection l’incomparable éclat procuré par des facettes minutieusement taillées à des angles arrondis pour une touche de douceur. Il en résulte une coupe qui se caractérise par un sentiment d’harmonie. Introduite il y a plus MARQUISE Cette taille longue et étroite est une autre version modifiée de la taille rond brillant. Elle remonte aux années 1700 lorsque, d’après la légende, Louis XV commanda un diamant spécialement taillé pour évoquer la bouche parfaite de sa maîtresse, la marquise de Pompadour. Sa forme crée l’illusion d’augmenter le poids en carats et d’affiner les doigts. COMMENT CHOISIR VOTRE DIAMANT
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 24 CHAUMET J E U X D E L I E N S Emblème de l’attachement indéfectible des êtres, la collection Jeux de Liens célèbre les relations qui durent, grâce à des créations à la fraîcheur assumée et aux couleurs affirmées. Réinterprétation moderne et délicate du motif du lien, souligné par la délicatesse du diamant, elles cultivent la légèreté et la joie de vivre, en proposant une multitude de déclinaisons hautes en couleur, en pierres ornementales montées sur or rose ou or blanc. CHAUMET Emblematic of the indestructible attachment of beings, the Jeux de Liens collection celebrates relationships that last, thanks to creations with a freshness that is assertive and colorful. A modern and delicate reinterpretation of the link motif, highlighted by the delicacy of the diamond, they cultivate lightness and joie de vivre, offering a multitude of colorful variations in ornamental stones mounted on pink or white gold.
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 25 A must-have for summer days, the new Bee My Love pendant lightly recalls the refined style of the beehive cells, Chaumet’s iconic motif. Irresistible, it shines like a sun with the movements of the wearer, offering each of its mirror-polished gold cells to the different lights of a summer day. Available in three versions- pink gold, pink gold with six diamonds or white gold with six diamonds, it illuminates the neckline with its sunny glow and radiates with a thousand lights. Composed of three rings joined together and mounted on a delicate gold chain, it evokes the rings of the collection. A new, ultra-desirable model to match with the other jewelry pieces in the collection. Or how to shade the sun... Incontournable des beaux jours, le nouveau pendentif Bee My Love reprend avec légèreté le style épuré des alvéoles de la ruche, motif iconique de Chaumet. Irrésistible, il brille comme un soleil au gré des mouvements de celle qui le porte, offrant aux différentes lumières d’une journée estivale chacun de ses alvéoles d’or poli miroir. Décliné en trois versions – or rose, or rose ponctué de six diamants ou or blanc parsemé de six diamants –, il illumine le décolleté de ses reflets solaires et irradie de mille feux. Composé de trois anneaux unis les uns aux autres et montés sur une délicate chaîne en or, il évoque les bagues de la collection. Un nouveau modèle ultradésirable à associer aux autres pièces joaillières de la collection. Ou comment faire de l’ombre au soleil...
YOUR STORIES OF LIENS L i ens Co l l ect i on
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 28 KEY DATES Opening of Jean dinh van first studio Opening of the New York and Geneva stores dinh van sells the first “Swatch” watches Launch of the “Deux perles” ring (Two pearls ring) and first dinh van sale point at the Publicis Drugstore Opening of our first shop located 7 rue de la Paix and design of the Menottes dinh van clasp Fine jewelry is for the first time sold at the Galeries Lafayette store including the brand dinh van The circular “Pi” creation becomes available in hammered 24 carat gold Purchase of dinh van paris by a private investor Creation of the «Pi» bracelet on a cord that introduces a new way to wear fine jewelry Opening of a dinh van store at the Dubaï Mall dinh van displays at the Arts Décoratifs museum at the Louvres in the jewelry gallery 25 sales points in the United States 40th anniversary of the Menottes dinh van collection 1965 1967 1998 2019 à suivre... 1977 2003 2018 1980 1984 1976 2000 2016 1991 DINH VAN MOD E R N I T YI NMOT I ON DINH VAN
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 29 MENOTTES D I N H VA N A CLASP TURNED JEWELLERY Drawing inspiration from the world around him, it was looking at the head of a key that Jean Dinh Van had the idea of recreating and intertwining it with another identical head. Simple on the surface but requiring perfectly manipulated proportions for the two elements to fit together, this system formed an ingenious clasp that seemed almost impossible to undo. Brazenly anti-establishment, Jean Dinh Van chose to position this clasp at the centre of his jewellery, whilst traditional jewellers usually endeavoured to hide it. Mounted indiscrimi- nately on a gold chain, a string of pearls or a simple cord, and redesigned in an array of variations, this interlaced motif, renamed Menottes dinh van, soon became a poignant and universal symbol of the unbreakable bond and attachment between two people. Since its creation in 1976, the Menottes dinh van collection has continued to blur the lines between the masculine and feminine, occupy- ing a league of its own as perfect jewellery with no age or gender.
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 30 HIGH JEWELRY COLLECTION iZABEL GOULART WEARING d j u l a . f r @d j u l a j ewe l r y
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 31 P R E T T Y WOMA N Aujourd’hui, alors que l’amour prend une teinte si personnelle pour chacun d’entre nous, FRED s’inspire de ce collier iconique et fait de sa nouvelle collection Pretty Woman l’expression moderne des multiples facettes de l’amour : your way your love, à chacun sa façon d’aimer. Une vision incarnée par une esthétique forte « le cour dans le cœur », également portée par un état d’esprit infusé de cette joie de vivre si caractéristique de FRED où vibre la liberté : liberté de ton dans une haute joaillerie à porter au quotidien; liberté de transformer les bijoux au gré de ses envies; liberté de variations de styles par le jeu du mix and match ou dans les infinies possibilités de portés. Et enfin liberté d’être et d’aimer, d’un amour joyeux, inconditionnel, audacieux, secret, éblouissant, éternel :, à chacun sa façon d’aimer... Today, at a time when love has acquired such personal significance for each of us, FRED draws inspiration from this iconic necklace to make its new Pretty Woman collection a modern expression of love’s many different facets under the precept «your way your love». This vision is captured in a distinctive aesthetic, «the heart within a heart», as well as by a mindset imbued with the FRED’s typical joie de vivre and sense of freedom: the freedom that comes from a style of high jewelry you can wear every day, the freedom to change your jewelry as your mood dictates, to vary your look by mixing and matching, or from the endlessly different ways the pieces can be worn. And, ultimately, the freedom to be and to love, with a love that is joyful, unconditional, daring, secret, dazzling and eternal: your way your love... FRED
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 34 TRADITION & CREATIVITY Eighteen years of experience in the jewellery sector have brought DEMETRA INTERNATIONAL SARL huge success, based on a special conception of goldsmith technology, which is geared towards an imaginatively rich design and a marked tendency for innovation. Founded in 2004 by the current CEO Alberto Pertosa, based in the Principality of Monaco, DEMETRA boasts a production entirely « Made in Italy ». The expressionMade in Italy not only stimulates the thoughts of a geographic area, but associates certain values with it. Italy is the pinnacle of quality, tradition, fashion, innovation and design. DEMETRA pulls from these factors in addition to the luxury of Monaco to create a unique goldsmith product. What makes DEMETRA competitive on the high quality gold market is an orientation towards fashion trends in the colours and materials used, which range from gold with diamonds, to combinations with cotton laces or pearls or gemstones color. Gold can be yellow or pink, and naturally also rhodium-plated. Much attention is also given to the display system to help the DEMETRA customer choose his Jewel. The mission of DEMETRA is to create jewellery for every occasion and for every personality, which also delivering a piece of jewellery of the highest quality. DEMETRA
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 35 TRADITION ET CRÉATIVITÉ Dix-huit années d’expériences dans le domaine de la joaillerie ont conduit DEMETRA INTERNATIONAL SARL à de grands succès, basés sur une conception particulière de la technologie de l’orfèvrerie mais aussi grâce à un design riche en créativité tout en respectant la tradition. Fondée en 2004 par l’actuel PDG Alberto Pertosa et basée en Principauté de Monaco, DEMETRA bénéficie d’une production entièrement « Made in Italy » L’expression Made in Italy ne fait pas seulement référence à une zone géographique, mais rappelle également d’autres valeurs. L’Italie est reconnue pour la qualité, la tradition, la mode, l’innovation et le design. DEMETRA s’inspire de tous ces facteurs associés au luxe monégasque pour créer un bijou d’orfèvrerie unique. Ce qui rend DEMETRA compétitif sur le marché de l’or de haute qualité, c’est une orientation vers les tendances de la mode dans les couleurs et les matériaux utilisés. Des créations en or blanc, rose ou jaune accompagnées de diamants, de perles et de pierres précieuses pouvant être également mises en valeur sur des cordons de coton. Une présentation soignée et organisée de nos collections avec toutes les caractéristiques de chaque bijou permet à nos clients de faire le bon choix. La mission de DEMETRA est de créer des bijoux pour chaque occasion et pour chaque personnalité tout en respectant une qualité supérieure.
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 36 & TAG HEUER PORSCHE E N T E R T H E S T R ON G E S T- E V E R PA R T N E R S H I P B E TWE E N A C A R MA N U FAC T U R E R A N D A WATC H B R A N D Fueled by a common history with innovation and motor racing at its core, led by visionary families whose values of entrepreneurship, precision and performance propelled them to the forefront of their respective industries, TAG Heuer and Porsche join forces to unveil an extensive partnership that will set a new standard for brand integration. TAG HEUER
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 37 La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland and Stuttgart, Germany – February 4th 2021: The Swiss luxury watchmaker TAG Heuer and the German sportscar manufacturer Porsche have announced their new partnership: an authentic alliance between two brands whose common DNA in motorsports and racing forges a holistic and long-term collaboration ranging from competition to product development. A new watch, the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph, is unveiled as first celebration of the iconic brands. TAG HEUER CEO FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT SAYS THAT THE TIME IS RIGHT FOR HIS BRAND’S PARTNERSHIP WITH PORSCHE: “TAG Heuer and Porsche have common history and values, of course, but more importantly, we share an attitude. Like Porsche, we are disruptors at heart, always in pursuit of high performance. With this alliance, TAG Heuer and Porsche finally come together officially after decades of close encounters and will create unmatched experiences and products for customers and fans that are passionate about both our brands and what we stand for.” “The strong friendship of our brand with TAG Heuer exists since decades and I am more than happy that we are now taking the next steps in the frame of a strategic partnership,” says Detlev von Platen, Member of the Executive Board for Sales and Marketing at Porsche AG. “We bring together what our customers love the most about both of us: authentic heritage, thrilling sports events, unique life experiences and the fulfilment of dreams. We both strive to create some unique, magic moments for our communities. We now look forward to doing it together.” TAG HEUER AND PORSCHE: TWO HISTORIES ONE PASSION TAGHeuer and Porsche have a number of things in common, from their rich histories and reputations for innovation to cutting-edge technologies, powerful and independent mindset, and a knack for excellence in design. And for over half a century, their stories have intersected in intricate, intriguing ways. Of course, the argument can be made that certain similarities of heritage can be traced all the way back to when both companies were founded by self-taught entrepreneurs. Edouard Heuer and Ferdinand Porsche were visionaries and pioneers whose creations changed their chosen fields forever. Heuer was responsible for the first manufactured chronograph and Porsche invented an electric wheel hub motor. Both these accomplishments earned medals at World’s Fairs held in Paris 11 years apart. Heuer was honoured in 1889 and Porsche presented the first Lohner-Porsche Electromobile with this innovation at the Expo in Paris in 1900.
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 38 TAG HEUER
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 39 There was another important – and more formal – link between Porsche and Heuer, or more precisely, TAG Heuer, the name assumed by the Swiss watch brand when it was sold to the TAGGroup in the mid-1980s. Together, the brands developed and produced the TAG-Turbo engine that enabled the McLaren team to win three consecutive F1 world titles: with Niki Lauda in 1984, followed by Alain Prost in 1985 and 1986. In 1999, the relationship grew even stronger – from the Porsche Carrera Cup and Supercup competitions, followed by the Endurance World Championship and more was yet to come. TAG Heuer, as a founding partner of the Formula E championship, helped raise the profile of thrilling single-seater races in electric cars. Porsche created its own Formula E team with TAG Heuer as title and timing partner in 2019, marking a starting point for an even more powerful and far-reaching collaboration. And in 2021, that “beautiful friendship” has become a holistic official brand partnership, celebrated by a special-edition timepiece that proclaims proudly, “It was worth the wait!”. NEW SPORTS PARTNERSHIPS FOR 2021 AND BEYOND Along with the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph, which is introduced below in stunning detail, 2021 will feature a rich portfolio of joint projects that reflect TAG Heuer’s and Porsche’s shared commitment to speed and precision sports. MOTORSPORTS: CONTINUING THE LEGACY The foundations of the long, strong link between TAG Heuer and Porsche are world-class motorsports and it is fitting that in the years to come, these thrilling competitions will be at the very heart of the new partnership. The TAG Heuer Porsche Formula E Team made history in its debut season. It set a milestone at the opener in Diriyah (SA) in November 2019, when André Lotterer crossed the finish line in second place: that was the first time a rookie team finished on a podium in its first race since the maiden season in 2014/2015. In its second year, the TAG Heuer Porsche Formula E Team will not only continue to attract new fans to a circuit that pits all-electric cars against each other, but also fight for the World Championship. Behind the wheel of Porsche’s latest all-electric racecar, the 99X Electric, will be drivers André Lotterer and his new teammate, Pascal Wehrlein. Porsche has long distinguished itself in endurance events and together with TAGHeuer its GT Team is well prepared for the coming FIA World Endurance Championship (WEC). The milestone year will also include series partnerships in ten editions of the the worldwide one-make cup series Porsche Carrera Cup. In addition to physical competitions, TAG Heuer also engages in virtual racing by supporting the Porsche TAG Heuer Esports Supercup. With such a rich common heritage on the track, TAG Heuer is naturally stepping in as global partner in Porsche’s ‘classic’ events and rallies as well. ONE TEAM, ON THE GREEN AND ON THE COURT Beyond the broad-based partnership in motorsports and esports, TAG Heuer and Porsche also share a passion for two other popular activities, golf and tennis. Golf has been a focal point of the TAG Heuer Connected watch developments in recent years, with the TAG Heuer Golf app offering a best-in-class experience to hundreds of thousands of players. Porsche for its part is running its own golf activities like the Porsche Golf Cup, and is sponsor of the Porsche European Open golf tournament since 2015, both of which TAG Heuer will join. Porsche’s support of tennis includes its own tournament, the Porsche Tennis Grand Prix in Stuttgart, of which TAG Heuer will be the Official Timing, Watch and Chronograph partner moving forward and which features some of the most talented women in the game. This comes of TAG Heuer’s already prominent on-court presence and via partnerships with world class tennis players. Joining forces in these sports as well was the obvious next step for both companies. FOR THE COMPETITOR IN ALL OF US TAG Heuer and Porsche know that their clients and fans are not simply observers. They are everyday thrill seekers who are eager to take on new challenges and make their own marks. They believe that beautifully-designed objects should not be locked in a safe or stored in a garage but should be used, put to the test, and enjoyed. For precisely these enthusiasts TAG Heuer and Porsche are creating unforgettable moments through the different Porsche experience formats. >>>
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 40 TheTAGHeuerCarrera PorscheChronographCarrera: an icon of a name that has been associated with TAG Heuer and Porsche for generations – so it was a natural choice for the first creative product collaboration. A tribute to the heritage of two legendary brands, both on and off the racetrack, the new chronograph offers a first glimpse at what they can achieve together. The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is an exquisite example of coordination, cooperation and collaboration. Based on TAG Heuer’s Carrera Sport Chronograph design, with its distinctive tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel, it introduces a number of features inspired by Porsche’s design essence. A compelling union of two icons of performance, quality, and innovation, this chronograph is a seamless blend of the Porsche and TAG Heuer universes, reflecting the excellence of both names without diluting the essence of either. Porsche’s engraved inscription is visible on the bezel and the unmistakable font is also used for the indexes. The Porsche colours of red, black, and grey – which also recall historic Heuer models – are incorporated throughout the watch, and on clear display through the transparent cristal case back is the oscillating mass, which has been redesigned in affectionate tribute to Porsche’s celebrated steering wheel. It is printed with “Porsche” and “TAG Heuer”. The dial’s asphalt effect, created especially for this watch, perfectly expresses a passion for the road, while Arabic numerals suggest the numbers on the dashboard of fine Porsche sportscars. This ground-breaking timepiece is presented either on a soft strap in luxurious calf leather and innovative stitching that echoes the Porsche interior or on an interlocking bracelet reflecting streamlined racing design. At the heart of this stunning timepiece is the in-house Calibre Heuer 02 manufacture movement with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. The chronograph mechanism’s vertical clutch and column wheel demonstrate the brands’ unflinching demand for absolute precision. Finally, the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is a Special Edition watch and is delivered in bespoke packaging with colours and a style consistent with the remarkable watch inside. The black watch box features the logos of TAG Heuer and Porsche in white. Inside the box is a perfectly-sized black travel pouch with an unmistakably Porsche red interior. The official partnership between TAG Heuer and Porsche may be on its starting line but it has been built on a remarkable foundation: the shared heritage and the common interests of two of the world’s favourite and most dynamic luxury brands. It is a friendship reflecting the dreams and aspirations of visionary founding families. It is a true collaboration developed over decades on some of the world’s most challenging racetracks and on the wrists of drivers who were the very embodiment of Jack Heuer’s motto, “Time doesn’t stop. Why should we?” CELEBRATING PARTNERSHIP A TAG HEUER
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GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 42 With the unveiling of the Chronomaster Sport in 2021, Zenith once again set a new gold standard for automatic sporty chronographs. Crowned with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021 “Chronograph” prize, the Chronomaster Sport is already a modern chronograph icon in the making. Now, Zenith is expanding the collection with new versions incorporating precious metals while retaining the performancecentric allure of the model. En dévoilant la montre Chronomaster Sport en 2021, Zenith a une fois de plus établi une nouvelle référence en matière de chronographes automatiques sportifs. Couronné par le « Prix de la Montre Chronographe » lors du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021, la Chronomaster Sport est déjà en passe de devenir une icône moderne dans le domaine du chronographe. Aujourd’hui, Zenith enrichit la collection avec de nouvelles déclinaisons incorporant des métaux précieux tout en conservant l’allure centrée sur la performance du modèle. C H R ONOMA S T E R S P O R T Z E N I T H ZENITH
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GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 44 HUBLOT
GOLDFINGER MAGAZINE 45 HUBLOT ET LE FOOT FÉMININ À l’instar de son rôle de sponsor des compétitions masculines de l’UEFA, Hublot porte aussi depuis 2015 les couleurs du foot féminin en soutenant la Coupe du Monde Féminine de la FIFATM au Canada. Depuis 2020, la marque soutient la Ligue des champions féminine de l’UEFA, le Championnat féminin européen des moins de 19 ans (Women’s Under-19TM) de l’UEFA, le Championnat féminin européen des moins de 17 ans (Women’s Under-17TM) de l’UEFA et le Futsal EUROTM féminin de l’UEFA, le tournoi de football en salle, sur surface dure. Une présence qui confirme l’attachement d’Hublot aux valeurs du sport et à l’esprit inclusif du football. À travers ses engagements, Hublot porte aussi les valeurs de la campagne Together #WePlayStrong qui vise justement à faire grandir le football féminin en Europe. Un engagement que l’horloger mène jusqu’aux terrains, avec ses deux amies de la marque – Ada Hegerberg et Alexia Putellas. Ada Hegerberg, pour la sélection norvégienne (Groupe A) défendra les couleurs de son pays, mais elles incarnent toutes les deux l’esprit du football féminin. Deux icônes sportives, deux parcours différents et inspirants, qui portent les valeurs de l’égalité au cœur même du football et au-delà. Hublot soutient le football depuis 2008... sur le terrain, à travers ses compétitions et ses athlètes, au masculin comme au féminin. Le football, une passion, une source d’inspiration. Un sport pour toutes et tous. Accompagnant le football féminin depuis 2015, à travers toutes les compétitions de l’UEFA et avec les Ambassadrices de la marque Ada Hegerberg et Alexia Putellas, Hublot va vivre son premier EURO UEFA au féminin. Une fierté bien sûr, une évidence surtout pour l’horloger suisse de luxe. HUBLOT AND WOMEN’S FOOTBALL Following the example of its role as sponsor for UEFA’s men’s competitions, Hublot has worn the colours of women’s football since 2015 by supporting the FIFATM Women’s World Cup in Canada and since 2020, the UEFA Women’s Champions League, UEFA’s Women’s Under-19TM, UEFA’s Women’s Under-17TM and UEFA’s Futsal EUROTMWomen’s champions League, the indoor hard-court football tournament. These sponsorship deals confirm Hublot’s commitment to the sport’s values and the inclusive spirit of football. Through its commitments, Hublot also champions the values of the Together #WePlayStrong campaign, which fittingly aims to develop women’s football in Europe. The watchmaker carries this commitment onto the pitches, with its two friends of the brand– Ada Hegerberg & Alexia Putellas. Ada Hegerberg, will play the competition on the Norwegian team (Group A) and will defend her country’s colours on the pitch, but together they both embody the spirit of women’s football. These two sporting icons are on two different, inspiring paths, to bring the values of equality to the heart of football and even beyond.. Hublot has been supporting football since 2008... on the pitch, through its competitions and working with male and female players alike. Football is a passion and a source of inspiration – a sport that anyone can play, regardless of gender. The brand has been supporting women’s football since 2015 through all the UEFA competitions and its brand ambassadors Ada Hegerberg and Alexia Putellas. This year, Hublot will be sponsoring its first UEFA Women’s EURO; a proud announcement, but above all natural development for the luxury Swiss watchmaker. F I R S T U E FA WOM E N ’ S E U R O FO R H U B LOT H U BL O T
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